Gnocchi, Italian Comfort Food

 Gnocchi are light, little pillows of potato dumpling goodness. Like the dumplings of so many international recipes, they are comfort food. Actually comfort is the reason, according to legend, that the dumpling was invented. One story tells of Zhang Zhongjing, a Chinese medical practitioner who wrapped dough around a meat filling, and added it to soup to provide relief from frostbite and illness to his villagers. The Italians track their gnocchi to the 1500’s.  Whether you believe the Italians or the Chinese or for that matter the Romans, dumplings, have been around for a very long time. I was quite surprised to discovered just how many countries have dumplings in their history of recipes.
There is one word that you will find repeated throughout this recipe. That’s ‘gently’. Overworking, just like overcooking will create hard little nuggets. You want the dough to just come together and be slightly sticky. Traditional Gnocchi have ridges, sometimes made over the tines of a fork or rolled over a special wooden mold. I made these simply, as it can be enough of a challenge making a tender Gnocchi. If you want to go for the gusto, there are lots of YouTube videos on how to do it.
When it comes to the potatoes for Gnocchi, Yukon Gold are the best choice, but in a pinch a Russets are the next best. Yukon Golds are a higher starch potato, prized for creamy mashed potatoes. Exactly what you want to create a beautiful Gnocchi.

Ingredients:

Dough:
  • 1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes
  • 3/4 cup flour
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tsp salt
Sauce:
  • 3 lg tomatoes
  • 1 egg
  • 1 white onion
  • 1 lg clove garlic
  • 2 tbsp fresh oregano
  • 1/4 cup white wine
  • 1/4 cup milk
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 2 tbsp veg oil
  • Salt & pepper to taste
  • Grated cheese

Method:

Gnocchi:

  1. Cook the Yukon Gold potatoes, skins on, either by steaming or gently in microwave.
  2. Set the potatoes aside to cool, skins on.
  3. Peel and gently crumble the potatoes with a fork. Resist the temptation to get out the masher.
  4. In a separate bowl combine salt and flour.
  5. With fork, beat egg and gently combine with potatoes.
  6. Sprinkle the flour mixture over the potato mixture. You can mound the potato and flour on a working surface and add the egg to that, but I find it easier to mix it in a bowl.
  7. Using your fingers of one hand gently swirl around to combine flour and potato. The mixture will come together to form a light ball. Still with one hand gather all the bits and with a few gentle turns, knead the mixture.
  8. Divide dough into 4 sections. Cover bowl and set aside.
  9. Bring a pot of water to gentle boil.
  10. While you are waiting for the water to boil start the sauce.
  11. Flour a work surface lightly.
  12. Roll each of the sections into a long rope, roughly 3/4″ thick.
  13. Slice rope into pieces 3/4″ long.
  14. Boil all the gnocchi from each rope section separately.
  15. As soon as the gnocchi float they are cooked.
  16. Lift with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Sauce:
  1. Finely dice onion and mince garlic.
  2. Remove the seeds from the tomatoes. I used basic beefsteak tomatoes because that’s what I happened to have. Ideally plum tomatoes, such as Roma, are best for pasta sauces.
  3. Stem and mince fresh oregano.
  4. Pulse the tomatoes in a food processor, adding the oregano leaves i
  5. n the last few seconds. Do not puree.
  6. Heat a saute pan on fairly high heat and add the prepared onion and garlic.
  7. As the onion starts to brown lightly, reduce the heat to medium.
  8. When the onion and garlic are tender add the tomato mixture. Then add the wine, butter, and milk.
  9. Simmer until sauce reduces. Salt and pepper to taste.
  10. Add the gnocchi to the tomato sauce. Toss and serve immediately topped with grated cheese.

How to Cook with Fresh Herbs

Yes, even in an Alberta winter you can cook with fresh herbs. In fact it’s probably the best time, as far as enjoyment goes. Just the aroma of the fresh herbs takes you back to summer dining. Bruise a fresh leaf and inhale. You won’t be able to help yourself. You have to smile and savor that aroma.

As for what herbs are best fresh? Just about everything, but herbs with woody stocks like rosemary and thyme hold their flavour well when dried. The tender stocks, like the basils, cilantro and chives are far better fresh.

Where to Find Fresh Herbs?

Well, there is the fresh produce department in your grocery store. But those poor bruised cuttings can be pricey and if they are discounted as a store loss leader, you know the quality probably isn’t great. Sometimes the groceries have live plants, but you need to get them while they are still fresh as they don’t get much care and attention, ie. watering once they are put on the display.

Variety on the grocery shelf is limited and frequently you will find an empty peg where the dill should be. Thai Basil, Lemon Grass or Kafir Lime are almost non-existent, except in the Asian markets. Herbs like Marjoram or Savory are pretty much only available dried in a bottle, unless you know a local grower.

There is your own windowsill, if you brought in your plants before the temperatures dropped. There are lots of ways to grow fresh in your home, depending on your space and lighting restrictions. Ideally start with something small and easily cared for, while you are experimenting with how what to grow. The photo is of a tiny countertop hydro system we which we experimented. We grew a number of different herbs very successfully.

Farmers’ and Community Markets are a great source of fresh herbs and you may still be able to get herbs from local growers. (Shameless plug, we grow a variety of fresh herbs all year round.)

Why is Fresh Better?

Tune into any cooking show and watch the chef. They are always chopping fresh herbs to add to their recipes. A big reason for this is the flavour. Yes, if you look up the conversion you will see that you need more fresh vs dried herbs, but the aroma of the fresh herbs is so much better. Like anything else, freshly picked provides way more nutrients and antioxidants. Plus a sprig or two of the herb makes a beautiful garnish on your dish, and presentation is important, including at the family dinner table.

One note to make on using fresh herbs is the length of cooking time. Some cooks say why bother with fresh if you are simmer for an hour or more, but European chefs are famous for their use of bouquet garni.  Bouquet garni is a bundle of fresh herbs, tied together with a string. That makes it easier for you to pull it out of the pot prior to serving. Rosemary, bay leaf, thyme, tarragon and parsley are the most common herbs that you would remove prior to serving. If you are using a bouquet garni bag you can also add peppercorns and other spices to the bag. Bouquet garni bags are fine cotton or muslin, but you could use tea egg in a pinch.

To Chop or not to Chop

Not a question really, more like a kitchen myth, says Peter Aitken. But it is a point of some debate. I go with ‘chop’ in a cooked dish, ‘tear’ if it’s a salad. It would be my opinion and yes, it is with some bias, that I say it is more important the quality of the ingredient and less how you get it into the pot.

Have a great day and may your cooking always be successful!

Laura